You should be able to blow into the fuel line where it leaves the tank (with the tank vented) without getting red-faced. Unfortunately, sometimes there is a screen in the tank which can become clogged resulting in a total lack of fuel delivery, especially if a tank sealer product has been used. On MGs and Austin-Healeys the line comes from the top of the tank, greatly reducing the amount of silt getting into the system. This stuff has been running through your lines for years! Soon after adding the new filter, you will almost certainly notice a build up of silt in the filter. Installing a filter under the bonnet right before the carbs is convenient, but not entirely effective. To prevent this situation, a clear disposable fuel filter (Fram G2) should be installed as close to the tank as possible. If junk gets past these filters, the check valve in the float bowl will malfunction, causing the car to die or even worse, the bowl to overflow.
If you were to look into the bottom of your float bowls, you would see that the OE filters don’t keep all the dirt out of the carbs. Usually, the pump has a screen in it, or the lines at the carbs (SU) have thimble like sieves. Crud in the gas tank often accumulates in the fuel line, especially on Triumphs with fuel lines coming from the bottom of the tank. Replacing all the lines is a sure fire (there’s that word again) way to insure that all the walking you do is with Fido. Truth is, many fuel delivery problems are not the fault of the pump at all. Harbor Freight also sells fire extinguishers! Too much pressure can cause the float bowl to overflow, causing the engine to flood and gasoline to drip all over that hot exhaust manifold. It should read between 2 and 4 PSI, but more importantly, the pressure should hold indefinitely. Shut everything off and look at the gauge. On original SU pumps the unit will stop clicking when the pressure has built up, while on most aftermarket electric pumps, the sound and frequency will diminish.
#1959 triumph tr3a carburetor full
Crank the engine for five seconds or for an electric pump turn on the ignition for a few seconds, listening for the pump to reach full pressure. A really clever fellow would test the pressure on all his LBCs just to get an idea of what to expect.Ĭonnect the gauge to the output of the pump with the input still coming from the tank. Now not only can you check the manifold vacuum, but you can test the fuel pump for proper operation. Instead, on your next trip to Harbor Freight, purchase a combination vacuum and fuel pump tester. Don’t try disconnecting the fuel line from the carbs and seeing how far the gas will shoot when you crank the engine. What really happens is that at the least opportune time, the car sputters and dies for no apparent reason, then mysteriously runs again, making you wonder what the heck is going on! Not to worry, you don’t really have to guess about the condition of that old pump. Unfortunately, that is not usually the way things go. The obvious scenario is that the damn thing won’t pee a drop, so you swap it for a new one and bada-bing, it’s a done deal. How about a new fuel pump? Of course, you don’t just replace the pump for the hell of it. Whew! Let’s do something a little bit less ambitious this time.
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